Valuable Resources and Information
But I Only Want A Pet
This is an all-too-common response when the subject of where to purchase a puppy is discussed. Think about what you really mean by that statement.
Does it mean you will be happy with a Bernese Mountain Dog which doesn’t look much like the dogs which initially attracted you to the breed?
Does it mean you will be happy with a puppy from a breeder whose sole motivation for breeding is to make money?
Consequently, whether your puppy has genetic problems, like crippling hip displasia, or eye problems, or worse still, temperament problems, is left entirely up to chance.
Does it mean your expectations from a breeder are so low that you are OK with the idea that the breeder takes no responsibility for their puppies once they have been sold? That a breeder’s indiscriminate overbreeding has strained the efforts of the Breed’s rescue program to the limit?
If you have answered YES to these questions, then check out the ads in the local newspaper, or those pretty websites. This is where most bad breeders find their puppy buyers.
If, however, you have answered NO to these questions, then you need to think about what you are really looking for in your berner pup.
DON’T SHORTCHANGE YOURSELF!!
Your requirements are VERY demanding. As a family pet, your dog should be sound in body and brain. You want a healthy dog that will hopefully live a long, pain-free life. And how about temperament? You want a dog you can trust to be stable and non-aggressive around yourself, your children and their playmates, your family and friends.
You want a dog that won’t bite the mailman.
Don’t be intimidated about talking to “show” breeders. Most ethical breeders do show their dog, and while they are hoping to produce the next show champion, most of their puppies go to pet homes like yours. JUST BECAUSE YOU WANT A PET is no excuse for you to buy from a bad breeder.
I Want To Breed
“…I WANT TO BE A BREEDER…”
Increasingly, the Bernese Mountain Dog community is hearing this statement coming from Prospective Puppy Buyers.
First of all, let’s dispel the myth that ownership of a purebred dog – of any breed – carries with it some God-given right to breed.
Some – mostly other “breed for greed” type of puppy farmers and merchants – consider this attitude to be restrictive and elitist, and is used to justify indiscriminate, unethical and inhumane breeding practices. We, on the other hand, consider restrictive breeding to be a part of being a good steward of the breed. We all know about the horror stories of other popular breeds that were devastated by careless and ignorant overbreeding – we are committed to doing whatever we can to avoid that fate for our beloved berners.
“But I paid good money for my dog – I have the right to breed if I want
to.”
No, in fact, you don’t. This is at the sole discretion of the breeder of your dog. A good breeder will not sell their puppies with full breeding rights to everyone. This is only done by bad breeders. If you are absolutely determined to breed, you will probably have to buy your pup from a puppy miller or ignorant Backyard Breeder, or go to an import broker who ships puppies in from Eastern European countries, where puppy mills are flourishing to supply a market you want to contribute to. The quality of the pup you buy from these sources is probably not going to be a good representative of the breed, and could very well be carrying all sorts of genetic and temperament problems, which will be passed on to their puppies. Not the best way to start out on your breeding program, is it? Oh, and speaking of money – it would be a good idea to check your liability coverage. Many states have Puppy Lemon Laws and allow buyers to sue you for fraud and misrepresentation if you breed genetically defective puppies.
“But I think it would be fun to have just one litter…”
or
“So my children can experience the miracle of birth…”
or
“I want another dog just like Fluffy…”
or
“We want to make our money back…”
None of these are good reasons to breed. Dogs should be bred for one reason and one reason only – to improve the breed. You’ve heard the expression “Making a baby is the easiest thing to do; being a good parent is the hardest.” Same thing applies to dog breeding. It’s easy to make a mess of puppies, but very difficult to be a good breeder. Good breeding is both an art and a science, and requires extensive knowledge and experience with dogs.
“But these are such beautiful dogs and all my friends want one…”
Every owner thinks their dog is the most beautiful in the world. We all suffer from kennel blindness in that regard. That is only one of MANY requirements that would potentially make your dog a good breeding dog.
As to all your friends wanting your puppies – experience says these friends interest evaporates quickly as the day draws near for them to take their puppies, especially if you are going to charge them real money for the pups.
“But I just want to breed nice puppies for nice people…”
This is what the Backyard Breeder and puppy miller says. If you don’t want to buy a puppy from this kind of breeder,
do you really want to become one yourself?
“But I would be a responsible breeder…”
This information packet is riddled with the components of what makes up a responsible breeder. Study that information as ask yourself honestly if you have the level of commitment necessary to “do it right.”
A BETTER WAY
For most puppy buyers, this is their first Bernese Mountain dog. Find a good breeder and let your first puppy be your wonderful companion. Join your regional BMD club. If you like the fun of friendly competition, train your
berner in competitive obedience and enter obedience events that the AKC sponsors. Or teach your berner to pull the cart. That’s what these guys were bred to do, and many of them just LOVE this activity. Become an active
member of the berner community. Become friendly with breeders who are club members, pick their brains, study berners being shown in the ring. Begin to learn what terms like Type, Structure, Bone, Layback, Topline, etc, mean.
These are all terms used to describe the physical characteristics of the breed. Study temperaments. Research different lines of dogs to see which lines carry which types of temperaments. Berner temperments vary widely. Some are friendly and outgoing; some are reserved (the breed standard uses the term “aloof”), some are terribly shy. All this is the beginning of the learning process that will prepare you to be a good breeder. These things are not learned overnight, but over years of study and education. In a few years you will look back and see how little you knew, and how much more there is to learn.
Puppy Health Guarantees
PUPPY “HEALTH GUARANTEES” – BEHIND THE FINE PRINT
Many commercial puppy merchants use impressive sounding puppy “Health Guarantees” as a sales gimmick to promote their puppies. READ and ANALYZE these carefully. These “guarantees” are often much less desirable than they appear at first blush.
1. RETURN AND REPLACE: The most commonly offered type of guarantee, this allows you to return your puppy if diagnosed to be suffering from a congenital disorder covered by the guarantee. This is for a limited time period (usually 1 – 3 years) and normally covers things like crippling hip displasia. These guarantees also are usually riddled with many caveats (like environmental conditions which nullify the guarantee). This document requires that you must give your puppy back to the seller. Are you prepared to do this, after you have loved and raised your pup for a year or so? If you are, what assurances do you have that your replacement pup won’t be from the same breeding or breeding line as the first pup, and the same hereditary problems won’t be present in this pup as well? Also, some puppy merchants, when confronted with a buyer willing to return a crippled pup, will attempt to dissuade the owner with threats that they will “take the dog back, but will immediately euthanize it.
” MOST PUPPY SELLERS CAN BE CONFIDENT OFFERING THIS SORT OF GUARANTEE SINCE THEY KNOW VERY FEW BUYERS ARE WILLING TO GIVE THEIR PUPPY BACK!
This sort of guarantee represents a very HIGH risk to you as the buyer, and a very low risk to the seller.
2. REPLACE ONLY: This guarantee offers you a new pup, sometimes at no charge, sometimes for ½ price. However, now you have two pups, and are still facing potentially expensive vet costs for the first pup. Also, your second pup, if from the same breeding or breeding lines, is likely to suffer from the same hereditary problems.
3. FULL OR PARTIAL REFUND: This is almost never offered, but some responsible breeders may amend their contract, if you ask. This means if your pup develops a congenital disorder covered by the contract, the breeder may refund you all or part of the purchase price of the pup.
4. “HEALTH CERTIFIED:” All this usually means is that the breeder has given the pups their first set of vaccinations, worming, and probably had the dewclaws removed. This is so basic, only the worst possible “breeders” wouldn’t supply this. Micro chipping may also be offered as part of the sales pitch. This is a small device inserted by needle below the skin between the shoulder blades. The device can then be “read” by a scanner. It provides owner information in the event the dog is lost. This costs about $15-50 and can be performed by any vet.
5. 72 HOUR RETURN POLICY: This allows you as the buyer to return the pup (usually within 48 – 72 hours) if the pup is “sick.” The pup must be seen and diagnosed by a vet. This is standard for all but the very worst breeders. However, if you have purchased your pup over the internet, YOU must pay the shipping costs (usually about $250 each way).
HEALTH CLEARANCES – WHAT’S THE DIFFERENCE?
Many buyers are confused by Health Guarantees (which are supplied on the puppies being sold) and Health Clearances (which are tests done on the parents and ancestors of the puppy).
Health clearances are documented proof supplied by breeders that the parents and ancestors do not carry genetic or hereditary diseases or disorders which can be passed on to the pups.
ALL dogs, especially purebred dogs, carry these genetic disorders. If a breeder tells you their dogs are healthy and have no genetic problems, this is a BIG RED FLAG!! Make them back that up with documentation.
Here are some examples of what a good breeder will provide you:
1. Hip and Elbow Clearances: These are radiographs evaluated by qualified organizations, such as OFA (Orthopedic Foundation for Animals). Most dogs in the pup’s pedigree should have clearances (see www.offa.org for more info). These clearances minimize the risk that your pup will inherit this crippling and debilitating disease. If a breeder tells you their local vet x-rayed the parents and said they “looked good” DON’T BELIEVE IT. There are standardized protocols for making these evaluations. If a puppy seller won’t send in the radiographs for certification, there is usually a reason. Also, dogs cannot receive OFA ratings until they are 2 years old. If the parents are younger than this, they WILL NOT HAVE OFA RATINGS. Some breeders will radiograph hips and elbows at 18 months and can receive a “preliminary” rating at that time.
2. Eye Clearances: This is an annual exam performed by board certified ophthalmologists on parents to verify that they are free from congenital eye disorders, such as Progressive Retinal Atrophy (PRA) and Entropion. The document is provided by CERF (Canine Eye Registry Foundation) and more info can be found on the OFA website listed above.
3. VwD Clearances: vonWillibrands Disease (vWD) is a hereditary blood clotting disorder. Parents are tested and certified as “clear,” “carrier,” or “affected.”
4. Other Clearances: Some breeders also test their dogs for heart defects, thyroid or autoimmune disorders, etc. Good breeders also usually offer health guarantees on their puppies, but that is backed up by documenting the genetic health of the pup’s ancestors. You must decide what level of risk you are willing to assume when you buy a pup.
REMEMBER, YOU ARE BUYING A PUPPY, NOT A GUARANTEE. THE BEST GUARANTEE OF A HEALTHY PUPPY IS ONE WHOSE PEDIGREE OF ANCESTORS CAN BE PROVEN TO BE HEALTHY AND SOUND THEMSELVES!
Truth in Advertising
If you find a breeder through an advertise me nt (internet, magazine , newspaper), DON’T BELIEVE ALL YOU READ OR ARE TOLD!!!
Most who breed as a business are out to maximize their profit and make as many sales as possible. Their breeding philosophy is NOT to provide you with a good quality pup – it is to pump out as many pups as possible, and sell them off for as much money as they can get.
If you are thinking about purchasing a pup sight unseen over the internet, STOP AND CONSIDER:
*You don’t even know what the parents look like . If you are sent pictures, do you know if these are the “real” parents? *What about their temperaments? Think you will be told if the parents are overly shy or aggressive? NOT A CHANCE! *You may or may not get the pup you think you are getting. Bait and switch is a VERY common s ale s tactic.
*What is the condition of the breeder’s facility? Pretty picture s on a website may hide a horrible reality.
*Think you are saving money? While internet pups are generally less expensive, you often must pay the shipping charges ($200- $300). If your pup is sick, or if you decide to return the pup (which is no gimme, especially if you expect a refund), you still must pay the return shipment. If you ke ep your sick puppy, the vet bills can rack up very quickly.
Anyone who breeds as their primary or supplementary source of income has a built-in conflict of interest. T hey have a capital investment in their breeding stock. They have business expenses, and they want to minimize their costs. T heir principal breeding philosophy is to maximize profit. This means the y don’t want to cull breeding stock with known health/temperament problems.
A BAD BREEDER IS USUALLY A GREAT S ALES MAN!
The goal of ‘breed for greed’ types of breeders is to make as many sales as possible. As crafty sales people, they may well tell you what they think you want to hear:
*”We don’t have health problems in our line.”
* “No, the s e dogs don’t get very big.”
* “No, the s e dogs don’t s he d much.”
* “Our dogs do fine in really hot, humid weather. They make great backyard dogs.”
* “All our dogs are s how quality, but we don’t s how because it’s all politics.”
* “We don’t check hips /elbows because it is NOT a genetic problem. If a dog has problems, it’s the buyer’s fault, because they overexercised, under exercised, let puppies go up/downstairs, didn’t feed the proper food,
overfed, didn’t give the m the supplements we sell, etc.”
* “The AKC won’t let us breed unhealthy dogs.”
* “Europe an dog are healthier than American dogs .”
* “No, we are NOT a puppy mill.”
THESE ARE ALLIES. WOULD YOU KNOW THIS IF YOU HADN’T BEEN TOLD?
The fact is, these breeders know just what to say, and how to say it, to fool you – their business depends on making you believe what you are told without any proof or evidence. T hey are experts at bamboozling the average buyer. Chances are, if you start asking too many questions, or if you challenge their claims, they will quickly terminate the conversation.
BAD BREEDERS THRIVE WHERE BUYERS ARE BLINDLY TRUST ING, ILL-INFORMED, AND JUST LOOKING FOR A PUPPY!
DON’T BE EXPLOIT ED – BE AN INFORMED
BUYER!
Responsible Breeder Information
What does a responsible breeder look like? Here are a few things to help guide you.
1. Responsible breeders show their dogs. Bad breeders bad mouth the “snooty show people” but the fact remains that if you are breeding to improve the breed, then you want to breed dogs that are good representatives of the breed, that demonstrate proper type, structure, bone, movement and temperament. This is best decided in the show ring. It’s easy to breed inferior specimens, but how does that help the breed? Berners from commercial puppy factories tend to be collie headed, no necked, thin boned, gay tailed, spindly dogs that look more like border collies than berners. Is this what you want?
2. Responsible breeders know the health history of their dogs. They have generations of dogs in the ancestry that have been tested and cleared of crippling hip and elbow dysplasia. Their dogs have had their eyes tested and are clear of genetic eye defects, like PRA. Their dogs have been tested for VonWillibrands disease and cleared. Additionally, responsible breeders can tell you about the dogs in the ancestry as to age at a dogs death, what they died from, etc.
3. Responsible breeders sell most of their puppies as companion pets, and have a spay/neuter clause in the contract. This is because there is a lot involved in being a good breeder, and good breeders don’t want to further the problem of the ignorant backyard breeder.
4. Responsible breeders carefully screen potential owners. The mere desire to acquire a bernese mountain dog doesn’t automatically qualify a buyer as a responsible owner. Just having the money to buy these dogs doesn’t make a responsible owner (we routinely rescue berners purchased from pet stores for up to $3000. These dogs are dumped once they become inconvenient or develop health or temperament problems). Money does not translate into a responsible owner. These are wonderful dogs, but they don’t work in every lifestyle, and a good breeder is much more concerned that their puppies are placed in the best homes possible, not just about making sales and money.
5. Responsible breeders keep track of the puppies they place. They want to know about health problems – they encourage owners – even of pet puppies – to have their dogs radio graphed for hips and elbows. They encourage owners to enter their dogs in the berner-garde database (see this at www.bmdca.org). This information helps good breeders in their future breeding decisions.
6. Responsible breeders are active in their regional and national breed clubs.
7. Responsible breeders have a clause in their contracts that owners return their dog to the breeder in the event they are unable to keep the dog. A good breeder recognizes that they have a lifetime responsibility for the dogs they have brought into the world. A good breeder doesn’t want their dogs dumped in shelters, or jettisoned into rescue if owners can’t keep their dogs. A good breeder is also willing to assist with rescue of other berners, bred by bad breeders who wash their hands of the dogs once the sale is done.
8. Responsible breeders are perpetual students of the breed. They study pedigrees and lines; they are current on health issues; they study and learn to improve their own breeding programs.
Helpful Hints for Buyers
Helpful hints for puppy buyers when contacting breeders
• Do your homework BEFORE you start contacting breeders. The more informed and knowledgeable you are about the breed, the more confidence a breeder will have in you.
• Be courteous, but persistent. One of the biggest complaints is that breeders don’t respond to emails or phone messages. Most breeders do not run kennels as a profession – they usually have a full time job outside the home. When they get home from work, they still have to tend to their families, both the two and the four legged variety. Then they are faced with responding to puppy requests. If you are phoning long distance, or if the breeder thinks you may only be making a casual inquiry, they may not respond, so be persistent. It may take several phone calls/emails to make contact. If you don’t get a return call from a breeder, call them again at different times (However, don’t call too late in the evening – after 9:00pm is probably too late to call).
• Don’t send out a “shotgun” email to every breeder on your list.
• Don’t begin the conversation with “Do you have any puppies for sale?” Instead, introduce yourself and where you live, explain how you found them (breeder referral, etc.), and ask if they have a few moments to talk to you about berners. You will find out soon enough about puppies.
• Be prepared to be asked a lot of questions and/or complete an extensive questionnaire. A breeder may come across as suspicious, or brusque, or even rude about your desire to become a berner owner. Try not to be offended or take this attitude personally. There is a HUGE demand for berner pups, but not all those who want these dogs are suitable. The breed has taken on a certain “trophy” status. Responsible breeders have a big financial and emotional investment in their pups, and want to make sure they go to the best homes possible, not to those whose primary interest in the breed is to be used as some sort of status symbol. Also, sadly some buyers misrepresent themselves as pet owners when their real interest is in acquiring breeding dogs for money making purposes. Good breeders are committed to making the best placement possible, and sometimes this process results in hurt feelings.
This explanation is not meant to absolve bad behaviour on the part of some breeders. Ideally, you will establish a relationship with your breeder which will last at least over the course of your dog’s life, and probably longer. If you aren’t comfortable with the way you are being treated, move on. There are other breeders out there.
• Don’t throw the baby out with the bathwater! Don’t condemn the entire ethical breeding community if you have a bad experience, or use this to justify buying from a bad breeder who is a nice sales person.
• Puppies aren’t available “on demand.” It could take you several months to find a pup. Be patient.
• Some breeders operate on certain absolutes, such as “must have a fenced yard,” etc. If a particular breeder won’t sell you a pup because you don’t meet their criteria, don’t get discouraged. Many, many first time berner owners have been turned down at least once (I was turned down by three breeders J). Again, there are other breeders out there.
• If this is your first berner, very few breeders will sell you a pup if you want to breed. You need to acquire years of experience with the breed in order to be educated enough to take on the challenge of breeding.
“Just one litter” for the kids is what we refer to as a “backyard breeder.” Wanting another puppy “just like Fluffy” is voodoo genetics. Do your children all look and act exactly like you, or each other? Same with dogs.
If berner breeders (and owners, for that matter) sometimes come across as being overprotective of our dogs, bear in mind that our beloved breed has been the victim of horrific exploitation in recent years. We are reacting – and in some cases, overreacting – in an effort to prevent future exploitation. If we occasionally lose our perspective, we hope you will understand and not take our concerns personally.
Hopefully, this will assist you in finding the right breeder.
Is a Bernese Mountain Dog Right for You?
Chances are you are visiting our website in the hopes of finding a puppy.
WELCOME!! You are starting your puppy search in the right place.
Now, please take the time to consider whether a Bernese Mountain dog is really the right dog for you. Many consider this step unnecessary, but the grim reality is, the reason so many purebred dogs wind up in shelters or with rescue groups is because a buyer made an uninformed, impulsive decision to purchase a cute puppy, only to discover six months later that they got more than they bargained for. We don’t want to see our dogs either in our rescue program, or relinquished to a local shelter.
Therefore, we ask you to take the time to research the breed now, and decide if you are really prepared for the commitment that goes along with ownership.
A LITTLE BERNER BACKGROUND
Bernese Mountain dogs were developed from dogs found in the countryside around Bern, Switzerland. Bernese were originally the farmers dog – they were guard dogs, defending the farm; droving dogs, driving cattle to and from their mountain pastures, and draft dogs, pulling carts laden with milk to the dairy. The breed was saved from near extinction by Professor Albert Heim around the turn of the century.
Bernese first came to America in the 1920’s and were recognized by the AKC in 1937.
The breed grow slowly, but steadily in popularity over the years. Recently, berners have become hugely popular. They are up from the 90th to the 45th most popular breed, according to AKC statistics. Understandably, this has created tremendous pressures on the breed, as irresponsible breeders pump out physically and temperamentally compromised pups that get sold to the uneducated buyer.
SOME ISSUES TO CONSIDER:
If you are thinking of making a berner part of your family, please consider the following as part of your research:
1. The most often given reason most potential puppy buyers are interested in in berners is “they are great with kids.” This is true, but this statement could be made for roughly ¾ of purebred dogs and mixes out there. The primary reason for a successful dog/child relationship is the commitment of the parents to supervise ALL interactions between puppy and child. Many berner pups can be quite stubborn about giving up or inhibiting play biting.
Children can unwittingly encourage this behaviour, resulting in the child being bitten and then becoming fearful of the dog. Conversely, puppies, even chunky berner pups, are pretty fragile and can be easily injured by overly enthusiastic children. Unsupervised play is like an accident waiting to happen.
Are you as parents committed to devoting the time and energy necessary to raising another “baby,” and to controlling the interaction with other children?
2. Berners want to be where you are. They can usually be found ON your feet. They are often referred to as a “Velcro” dog. This is not a dog for a casual dog owner. If you want a dog around only when it is convenient for you, but out of your way when you don’t have time, this is NOT the breed for you. No dog thrives as a “backyard” dog, but berners especially suffer from this sort of isolation. A berners neediness is overwhelming for some people.
Do you welcome and enjoy the constant attention and neediness of your dog, or do you find this devotion to be suffocating?
3. Berners have their share of health problems. These are itemized in BMDCA InfoSeries
#4. Unfortunately, these medical conditions can require a significant investment to treat. Even relatively healthy dogs cost several hundreds of dollars per year in maintenance costs. Additionally, there is also the emotional investment that goes along with this.
Do you have the financial wherewithal AND the willingness to provide medical care where needed. Are you and your family emotionally prepared to live with and treat a chronically sick dog, and to say goodbye to your dog at what seems to be an absurdly early age, such as 4 – 6 years.
4. While most berners are sweet natured, there is a strong tendency in the breed to be aloof, reserved and even shy around strangers. Berners need intense socialization, starting with puppy kindergarten, to help them grow up to be well adapted adults. Pups need to be introduced to new people and situations on a regular and ongoing basis. Praised-based,
positive reinforcement obedience classes are also a near-must to ensure you wind up with a well-mannered dog. As owners of a large breed dog, you have a special obligation to be a “good ambassador” in a society which has preconceptions about the “big black dog.”
Are you prepared for the commitment needed to help your pup develop into a good canine citizen?
5. How active are you? If you want your berner to share in a very active outdoor lifestyle such as jogging or bicycling, especially in our hot, humid, southern climate, a berner is not the dog for you. By the same token, these dogs are not the “couch potatoes” they are sometimes depicted to be. They can be quite energetic and require brisk exercise and an area to run freely off leash. They are also the happiest when they have a “job.” Unlike the gun dogs, berners are seldom satisfied with repetitive tennis ball retrieval. Many enjoy carting, competitive obedience, agility, herding and tracking. See BMDCA InfoSeries for more information about these activities you can enjoy with your berner.
The important thing is, berners want to share this moderately energetic activity with their owners. Does a bernese really fit your lifestyle?
6. Berners shed. There are lots of ways to say this. Berners only shed once a year – for 365 days. Berners shed twice a year, for six months each time. Berners blow their coats twice a year and shed in between times. If having a lot of animal fur in your house bothers you, a berner is not for you. If there is a household member who is allergic to animals, a berner is not for you. Some berners also drool, some profusely.
How much do you care about maintaining a meticulously clean house?
7. Berners range in size from a small 23” 65 lb female, to a large 28” 120+ lb male, and everything in between. They need room to romp and have exercise needs. Is your yard fully fenced? Do you have room to accommodate a large dog that needs to live indoors with his people but needs to have room to run outside.
Is your home prepared for a big, active dog?
8. If this is to be a family dog, is everyone willing to accept responsibility for meeting the dog’s needs? If the primary caregiver becomes unable to take care of the dog, will others pick up the slack? If this is to be a child’s dog, do you understand that the reality is YOU will be the primary caregiver? We have seen too many berners wind up in Rescue who started out as “the husband’s dog.” When the majority of the dog care ended up the responsibility of the unwilling wife, our club became the resource left with the task if trying to place an untrained, unsocialized and unwanted dog. We do not believe a dog is a disposable commodity. We’d prefer you to get a goldfish, rather than a Berner, if you think you will get rid of the dog
“if it doesn’t work out.”
Is your ENTIRE family eager and committed to welcome a dog into your home and your life?
Take the COMPATABILITY PROFILER to see how well your lifestyle matches a Berner. Other great resources for you:
Puppy Buyer’s Guide (http://www.bmdcsew.org/pbg2_index.htm)
Michelle Weldon’s Your Purebred Puppy: A Buyer’s Guide. www.yourpurebredpuppy.com
Berner Home Page: www.berner.org
Books:
Guenter, Bernd. The Bernese Mountain Dog: A Dog of Destiny
Russ, Diane, and Rogers, Shirle, The Beautiful Bernese Mountain Dog
Smith, Sharon, The New Bernese Mountain Dog